This happened somewhere between 50k and 1 lakh years ago. Humans lost their body fur to body lice…As they shed their fur… their bodies, especially the genital area, became more vulnerable and uncomfortable during seasonal changes. Wrapping them with animal hide or leaves was a solution for primitive humans. This was probably the most sustainable, eco-friendly way of getting oneself dressed.
With innovations such as wheels, tools, etc., Humans made fabric from threads and felt. Over time the fabric kept improving and became artistically and aesthetically appealing. The richer the land, the more diverse the culture, food, and clothing. The amalgamation of various cultures due to migration and invasion brought more richness to clothing, especially in resource-rich regions like Southeast Asia, Central Eurasia, etc… However, all these innovations around clothing were of natural material, naturally dyed.
A Chinese princess discovered the cocoon of a worm… that could be spun into fabric and thus, came into existence a world-renowned fabric… Silk
This fabric shaped the pre-colonized world and its trade, till the Industrial Revolution.
When did clothing become the “Fashion Industry”?
Somewhere in the 14th century, In Southeast Asia and Far East Asia, Women, men, young and old dressed according to their occupation, trade, and position they held in ruler’s courts…Especially in Southeast Asia, one could identify a person’s religion/caste/occupation based on how they draped their clothing.
In Western countries, the population started following trends to ascertain their class, their position in society… As the demand for new fabrics rose, and there was a need to encourage homegrown industry over imported fabric, Countries like France, and Britain levied tax on fabric imported from Indian ports, this tax was called the Calico Tax. The fabric arriving from the Indian subcontinent was the most exquisite handwoven cotton finer than silk, known as Dacca Muslin, and it became so popular in Europe that they were ready to pay 20 times more than the cost of local cotton fabric.
The purpose of clothing
The popularity of Dacca Muslin led to widespread exploitation of the weaver community back in India, driving them to poverty, starvation, and the extinction of the fabric itself. The fabric, the weaver, and the type of plant that produced this cotton were all lost.
Similar exploitation happens even after millennia. New trends come and old ones go. The entire fashion Industry runs on this pattern, making or breaking textile manufacturers and putting unhealthy pressure on garment-making factories and small-scale traditional sectors in poor countries.
The purpose of clothing was to protect, instead, the undue demand of new styles and trends creates unhealthy working conditions and burdens on the planet. As of now, Year 2024. A huge pile of discarded clothes can be spotted on Earth from space.
In her TEDx, Jennifer Mallspaugh, A PhD in Fashion, says “The fashion industry as we know it is obsolete. The industry is in drastic need of change to make it technologically more innovative and sustainable” She further sheds light on what sustainability means, concluding that slow fashion could be a thing if the clothes are made locally using local fabrics, local artisans, and supplied within the country of origin. Her advice is the answer for Southeast Asian countries. we have Indigenous cotton crops and we have artisans to make them into garments and a rich community of designers.
New entrepreneurs like Livbio are the future of clothing brands. They are locally sourced, naturally dyed, tailored by local artisans, and available at affordable pricing. As responsible customers, we should encourage this homegrown fabric, that will one day be the face of the sustainable, progressive, and eco-friendly Indian clothing industry.
